Browns Bar and Brasserie
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Date: 22 October 2007
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Set within a majestic building that previously served as a museum, art gallery and the university refectory, with high ceilings and a multitude of windows is Brown's Restaurant and Bar.
I visited the restaurant and bar once before, 12 years previously, and if anything, the interior seemed even grander now, with soft lighting creating a warm glow, and friendly, efficient waiters. I began my meal with the gravadlax (£7), thin slices of salmon coloured a vivid red by the beetroot that delicately favoured the fish. My companion tucked into a warming bowl of rich mushroom and rosemary soup (£4), with crusty bread ideal for dipping.
For the main course, I opted for the Beef Wellington (18), with the fillet of beef nestled inside a dome of buttery pastry, along with mushrooms and a velvety chicken liver pâté. My companion enjoyed the succulent duck confit (£12.50) with a sauce of sweet cherries, the subtle spiciness of which was reminiscent of mulled wine.
We opted for the Firefinch South African Sauignon Blanc (£15), a fruity, wine with a hint of gooseberries and melon that perfectly complemented the full favours of the food.
When the dessert menu arrived we were pleased to learn that Browns offers the option of a small tart called Try a Little Sweetness (£3). As suggested by our waiter, we order two flavours to share between us. The first was topped with three plump strawberries over a creamy vanilla base, and the second had a dense, chocolate filling offset by the sticky fruitiness of prunes.
The attentive service and friendly, relaxed ambiance reminded me why the restaurant was such a hit in my teenage years, as it clearly remains a firm favourite, and is likely to do so for years to come.
Judy Darley
Browns Bar & Brasserie
Bristol
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